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YSL'S Alleged Plagiarism Is A Wake-Up Call And A Test Of How Designers Measure Design Style And Sales

2021/8/19 17:44:00 1

Venice, the romantic water city, ushered in the first offline show of Saint Laurent men's wear after the epidemic. At the Venice Architecture Biennale, creative director Anthony vaccarello invited American artist Doug Aitken to create a large installation art called "green lens".

Saint Laurent spring and summer 2022 men's wear series is officially released. Anthony vaccarello chose to release the 2022 spring men's wear on La Certosa island in Venice. In the romantic seaside, it also confirmed his romantic feelings.

Saint Laurent opens "new show"

Since the outbreak of the epidemic, there has been no magnificent fashion show by Saint Laurent in front of the Paris tower. On the contrary, Anthony vaccarello's online world has become active.

In December 2020, Saint Laurent released the spring and summer 2021 women's wear series in the form of live video. Creative director Anthony vaccarello moved the show from Paris to a vast desert in Marrakech, Morocco, North Africa.

The model walked through the sand dunes in turn, from the sunset into the night. The day was calm and broad, and the campfire was lit at night. The flame was warm and wild, and it was spectacular.

After leaving Paris, the location of every show has become crucial. This year, Saint Laurent also brought two wonderful shows.

In the autumn and winter 2021 women's wear series, YSL brings the models to the cold Iceland.

It's the idea of a girl in a landscape where she doesn't belong. Saint Laurent should do something that's like a dream: what the f?! Why is she there？”

Creating an adventurous scene is the style of Saint Laurent.

The magnificent and primitive natural scenery brings a new look to the luxurious artificial fur and leather, jewelry and tweed, and brings a kind of French romance.

This season's clothing focuses on the party Queen's modeling in the 1960s. The rich colors collide with the black background to create a variety of costume styles. Draped and elegant metallic clothes, with a 1960s style tweed suit and fur trim, exude calm and confident.

From the classic modeling of peaches, a minority musician in the 1990s, the gorgeous and defective beauty elements blur the boundary between vulgarity and luxury; The eye-catching metallic plain fabric Jumpsuit echoes with the flickering jewelry.

Spring and summer 2022 men's wear comes to Venice, Anthony vaccarello described the season as "the dark romantic fantasy of the Victorian era", and also an offline show of brands after the epidemic.

Vaccarello's season is inspired by the Victorian British symbolist poet Arthur Symons.

Elegant shirt, draped fabric, ruffle, lace, ribbon... Although the tone is black, it shows the beauty of rich details.

The models are like teenagers coming out of aestheticism, as light and delicate as the strokes of the Victorian Print Artist Aubrey Beardsley.

In this season's work, Anthony vaccarello also pays tribute to the classic yellow Opera House Cape in Yves Saint Laurent's autumn / winter haute couture collection, turning it into a flowing ruffled silk shirt.

Saint Laurent, two directors

In 2012, at the invitation of Kaiyun group and Pierre Berge, co-founder of the brand, Slimane took over the then "tottering" Yves Saint Laurent from Stefano Pilati and served as the creative director of the brand.

Saint Laurent of Hedi period, his personal style deeply influenced the whole brand.

As soon as he took office, he changed the brand name and logo from Yves Saint Laurent to Saint Laurent.

Make Saint Laurent a new look with slicane. By the end of his term of office, he nearly tripled the brand in just a few years, and the sales of ready-made clothes reached the same level as accessories bags. Slimane has made this old fashion house, which once lost its vitality, become one of the brands of Kaiyun group's commercial value.

Street culture has always been a source of inspiration for Hedi Slimane, and rock and uninhibited are also his most distinctive styles.

In 2016, Hedi Slimane left the brand decisively because of a content copyright dispute with Saint Laurent and the group.

In April 2016, Anthony vaccarello, who has Italian blood, was appointed creative director of Saint Laurent brand, which also indicates that YSL has entered a new era.

Different from Slimane, strict tailoring is the strength of Anthony vaccarello, which also brings strong but perceptual fashion lines to popular culture.

He began to focus on the design of urban women's modeling. These women were independent and fearless to pursue what they wanted. These qualities fascinated him.

There is a natural fit between Anthony vaccarello and Saint Laurent. Since taking over Saint Laurent, he has injected a lot of new energy into the brand.

His work is also closely linked to the aesthetics he has built on his label, which combines a preference for carving and diagonal silhouettes, usually black, cut with sharp edges and embellished with metal details.

Anthony Vaccarello, with his works, has gradually changed from not being optimistic to being highly praised, along with the sales volume is also rising.

But because of the constant competition among peers and the continuing impact of the epidemic, Saint Laurent needs to do more if he wants to keep his popularity.

Saint Laurent's new series accused of plagiarism?

After Hedi Slimane took over Celine, he directly changed the image of "gentlewomen" urban big women created by former designer Philo in his work, and replaced it with a more street oriented and younger leisure style.

Although it has been criticized by the fashion circle that "the style is more and more like fast fashion Zara", according to the financial report, LVMH 2021's revenue increased by 32% to 13.949 billion euro, and organic sales increased by 30%. By sector, Celine's fashion and leather division grew 45% to 6.738 billion euros.

This data effectively silences those who have questioned the success of new Celine.

The success of Celine's transformation undoubtedly gives more brands the courage to reform.

In Saint Laurent 2021 autumn / winter women's wear series, Anthony vaccarillo said goodbye to his beloved black and monochrome series. Instead, he gave the ready-made clothes such as purple, cobalt blue, gold and yellow green.

Vaccarello calls it "the silhouette of the '60s and the colors of the' 80s." A metallic one-piece suit with a body silhouette and a tweed suit in 1960s style is decorated with fur sleeves to blend elegance and sexuality.

However, shortly after the release of the autumn and winter series, it was pointed out that there was a suspicion of copying Chanel.

In particular, this season, Saint Laurent's extensive use of colors, tweed fabrics and waist chains are classic elements that Chanel of the 1990s can see at any time.

The shell button and four pocket design on the coat give people the feeling of strong Chanel style.

Saint Laurent's Byzantine Maltese Cross, which is widely used in necklaces and accessories, is also one of Chanel's classic elements.

Even Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel's current chairman, said directly, "this is a disgraceful act“

Many people have also commented that Saint Laurent has been compromising to the market time and again. However, looking at the current fashion circle, "plagiarism" actually represents that every brand needs to operate around the market, consumers and trends, and the design that the public pays for is the design that the brand needs. This storm of Saint Laurent is not just a battle of words between brands, but an alert and test of how designers measure design style and sales volume.